The Untold History & SECRET of Making The Perfect SISIG! 🌶ï¸
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debunking misconceptions, and celebrating the true essence of this beloved dish.
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Mabuhay o inkapampangan, luwid kayo!
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Welcome back to my channel, it's me Kirby Aralio,
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your friendly Pino historian and culture bearer.
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And today's video is all about sisig.
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Now this video is actually a longer, updated, and extended version
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of an older video that I made way back in 2015.
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So if you've been on my channel in the past 8 years or even longer,
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in the past decade or so, dakal pong salamat.
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Seriously, thank you for all your love and support through these years.
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But if you are new to my channel, in this channel,
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I make videos about our people's history, culture, and everything in between.
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So if you like learning about any of these things,
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if you like digging deeper into our roots,
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don't forget to like, share this video, comment down below,
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and please, please subscribe.
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Now first things first, this word sisigan,
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which many have recently claimed to be the Tagalog root word for sisig,
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does not even exist in any of the oldest Tagalog dictionaries.
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And I've seen this claim around for the past few years,
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but I'm still not sure how they came up with this conclusion
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of this supposedly Tagalog origin of the word.
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Because we all know that the roots of sisig have always been kapampangan,
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and it dates back to our pre-colonial ancestors.
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as many of you know,
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we've lost a lot of our pre-colonial records
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through the centuries of war and colonialism.
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the vast majority of our archives were lost in World War II alone.
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So where can we find the oldest written record of sisig?
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And what does this word sisig really mean?
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According to the oldest surviving documentation of sisig
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in the Vocabulario de la Lengua Pampanga by Fray Diego Bergano in 1732,
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sisig is a kapampangan word.
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it's an indigenous kapampangan word.
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It means kapampangan salad,
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whereby meat, fish, vegetable, or half-ripe fruits
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are prepared with a spice vinegar or citrus dressing,
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And also mentioned in this old dictionary is the kapampangan term manisig,
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which means to snack on something sour,
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a subtle nod to the joy of preparing and indulging in something tangy.
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Okay, so before we continue,
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let's lay some foundations.
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Let's talk about the overall importance of food history and traditions.
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Protecting food history and traditions anywhere in the world
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is a tribute to the cultural tapestry woven into our culinary heritage.
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You know, each dish and cooking technique carries the essence of a community's identity,
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offering a profound connection to the past and a celebration of shared experiences.
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Traditional food are not just sustenance.
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They're actually a tangible link to our ancestors,
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embodying the wisdom and the values passed down through generations.
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Preserving food tradition is an act of sustainability,
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promoting the use of local ingredients and time-tested cooking methods.
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By embracing these practices,
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we foster a deeper connection to the land.
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Additionally, respecting the rituals and customs associated with food traditions
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deepens our understanding of cultural values,
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creating a genuine appreciation for the diverse ways
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in which communities express themselves through their cuisine.
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And you know, ultimately,
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the respect for food history and traditions transcends the act of cooking and eating.
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You know, ultimately, the respect for food history and traditions transcends the act of cooking and eating.
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through preserving cultural identity,
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fostering community,
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and contributing to a world
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where the richness of various,
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diverse culinary heritage
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is acknowledged and celebrated.
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A shared journey bridging the past and the present,
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ensuring that the flavors
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and the stories of our ancestors
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endure for generations to come.
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Now don't get me wrong,
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this video is not intended,
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it's not meant to create any further divisions,
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it's not meant to ignite
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even more fights over the internet.
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Instead, in contrast,
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this video is meant to find unity,
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to deepen our understanding
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by demystifying Sisig.
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So let's dive deep into the epic journey,
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the epic history and roots of Sisig.
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In the vibrant Kapampangan culinary history,
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Sisig stands as a time-honored tradition,
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in fact, more ancient
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than the Philippine nation itself.
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And as mentioned earlier,
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back in the 1700s,
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the Spanish friar Diego Berganio
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documented Sisig's existence
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as a salad or sour snack
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with unripe mangoes or guavas.
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Now, initially conceived as a delicacy
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reserved for expectant mothers,
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Sisig, with its unique and distinctive sour undertones,
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was believed to combat the woes of morning sickness.
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According to our elders,
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back in the old days,
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only pregnant women were allowed to eat Sisig.
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Then kahagli in Kapampangan,
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And it was said that men were not even allowed
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to have a taste of it
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because of the superstition that
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if a man eats Sisig,
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he will also experience morning sickness
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and other signs and symptoms of pregnancy.
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But more importantly,
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eating Sisig was also a social event for women,
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as opposed to how Sisig is eaten
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and perceived as a pulutan today.
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Pregnant women traditionally shared
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and enjoyed Sisig with other women
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who have also experienced pregnancy.
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It was a special moment for them to talk about life
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and enjoy each other's company.
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But this all changed in the centuries to come.
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Now, Sisig comes in a variety of forms.
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There are literally countless versions of Sisig.
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And I'm not even just talking about the modern version.
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And I'm not even just talking about the modern version.
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I'm talking about the variations of Sisig
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that we find in a variety of restaurants today
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in different cities.
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You know, there's modern fusions
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and commercialized versions of Sisig.
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I'm talking about the traditional Sisig itself.
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You know, the Sisig that's indigenous to us Kapampangans.
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Many towns, cities and communities
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in Indong Kapampangan
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are known for their own traditional Sisig.
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In fact, even old Kapampangan clans
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have their own signature Sisig.
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For example, my own Tayag side of the family,
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we have this secret recipe of
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Sisig babiding Tayag
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that you won't find anywhere else but within this Mapiang Sugi clan.
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It is both secret and sacred to our clan that we were told by our elders that it is forbidden to be commercialized.
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The earliest and most traditional variations of sisig are actually more similar to kilayin,
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another popular pre-colonial dish that is also identical to ceviche.
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Now, the original incarnation of sisig babi or pork sisig that many of us are familiar with today
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showcase a blend of boiled pig's ears and tail, with onions all adorned in tangy spice vinegar.
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And this is because of the belief that the cartilage contributed to the child's bone development in the womb.
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But as mentioned, sisig goes beyond just pork or meat dishes.
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Here are some 10 examples of, you know, traditional sisig that you probably never heard of.
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We have sisig madibalang kapaya, sisig pusong sakin, sisig apalya, sisig paku, sisig paro, sisig talabao,
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sisig bangus, sisig ema of sasmon, kilo sa, and kilo damulag.
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These are just a few of the many traditional variations of sisig in Pampanga.
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But as you can see, the main ingredient of meat, seafood, vegetables, or fruits do not define sisig.
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Because what really makes sisig sisig is the meticulous process of making it using indigenous ingredients available at hand.
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And the most essential of which is a souring agent, such as the spicy papam vinegar or slamsasa,
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and kalamunding, a.k.a. kalamansi.
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And as always, I'll include the list of resources for you to learn more, for you to dig deeper into the roots of sisig.
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But before we dig deeper, I just want to give a shoutout, a special shoutout to all my patrons.
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Because this video will not be possible without the love and the support of all my patrons, subscribers, and viewers like you throughout these years.
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Kaya naman maraming maraming salamat po, or in Pampangan, dakal pong salamat, and in Benisaya, daghang salamat.
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So if you want to help me make more videos like this, you can subscribe to my channel, and you can also follow me on Instagram.
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Please be my patron on Patreon, or a member of my YouTube channel.
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You may also check out my books, coloring books, and e-books about the pre-colonial history and oral traditions of the Philippines and Southeast Asia.
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Okay, now back to our topic.
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So where exactly do we get this, you know, this sizzling sisig that we are familiar with today, that the world loves today?
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The short answer is my hometown.
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In the heart of Pampanga, Culiat, or Angeles City, in the late 1960s, marked a crucial chapter in sisig's history.
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and manisig street vendors introduced sisig as a pulutan.
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The sizzling streets of Burgos witnessed the birth of sisig barbecue, a crunchy delight served on enamel plates,
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transforming this part of the city into the famous food destination known as crossing,
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with key players like Bapang Kadok Dinyo, who first introduced us to the sisig ning nang balugbog babi,
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and then Aling Lusing Lagman Kunanan, who introduced us to the sisig ning nang balingit babi.
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But the innovation to present sisig on sizzling plates,
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is attributed to Bapang Benedicto Faminduan.
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Bapang Benedicto's restaurant turned sisig into a family affair in the early 1980s.
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Now around the same time, the sizzling sisig trend would also be introduced and spread to Manila,
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all thanks to the Tayag Clan, with unique variations like Bapang Dan Tayag's addition of chicken liver.
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However, it was Aling Lusing's reign as the Sisig Queen of Crossing,
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catering to celebrities and even the Marcuses at the Malacanang Palace that became the gold standard by the 1990s.
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at the Malacanang Palace that became the gold standard by the 1990s.
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But amidst this, in Barangay Santo Domingo, Apong Mila Gomez quietly preserved the original Sisig Matwa at Mila's Tokwat Baboy.
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And then you know, Sisig took a fascinating twist when it gained global recognition in the 21st century.
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Thanks to influential figures like Anthony Bourdain and his dear friend, Bapang Cloud Tayag.
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And this paved the way for Bapang Ronnie, the son of Bapang Kadok, to revive his father's legacy in 2021.
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Staying true to his father's recipe of Sisig Ningnang Balugbog Babi.
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This marks a new chapter in the history of Sisig, while keeping its timeless flavors alive.
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Showcasing the culture of Kapampangan cuisine that has been enjoyed for centuries.
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So if you want to learn more about this fascinating evolution in history of today's sizzling pork Sisig,
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check out Bapang Mike Pangilinan's well-researched documentation and article on the history of Sisig,
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how Angeles City kept reinventing a traditional Kapampangan delicacy.
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Okay, so what exactly is the problem?
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Why are Filipinos fighting over Sisig?
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And what does cultural appropriation,
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So for those who may not know,
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cultural appropriation refers to the act of borrowing or taking elements from one culture
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and integrating them into another,
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often without proper understanding or respect for the cultural context.
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While cultural exchange can foster understanding and appreciation,
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appropriation becomes problematic when it involves the misuse or commodification of sacred symbols,
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rituals, or traditions.
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It can, you know, perpetuate stereotypes,
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further marginalize,
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and undermine the authenticity of the original cultural practices.
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And thus, sensitivity and awareness are crucial in navigating the fine line between appreciation and appropriation,
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encouraging a more inclusive and respectful approach to cultural interactions.
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Now let's consider the case of Sisig,
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you know, this dish that practically embodies the rich culinary heritage of the Philippines.
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Okay, so respecting the authenticity of Sisig means understanding and preserving this centuries-old tradition,
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involving, you know, recognizing the meticulous selection of ingredients,
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the artistry in chopping,
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and the distinctive local flavors that define the dish.
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Our traditional way embodies a cultural narrative,
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and any evolution should maintain this essence,
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appropriating Sisig without due respect for its roots,
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cultural significance,
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and social context.
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You know, this is actually similar to the blunder made by Bon Appetit magazine
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when they whitewashed the Vietnamese pho
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and added gummy bears and popcorn
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to our beloved Filipino haloha.
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Both instances highlight the importance of approaching culinary innovation with cultural sensitivity,
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just as altering the core elements of Sisig dilutes its essence and historical connection,
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adding random ingredients to our beloved halohalo
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or misrepresenting the Vietnamese pho
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risk undermining the cultural significance of these beloved food.
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Yet, evolution does not necessarily equate to bastardization.
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Respectful innovation allows for creative reinterpretations
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while still maintaining the cultural significance of the food.
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An authentic evolution of Sisig might entail experimenting with additional local ingredients
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or exploring alternative cooking methods.
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However, it should never compromise the fundamental principles that define Sisig.
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Bastardizing this dish would involve altering its core components
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to the extent that it loses its cultural significance and historical connection.
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And so in navigating food culture,
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adopting elements without a deeper understanding
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between respectful celebration and misappropriation.
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The essence of true respect for food history
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lies in acknowledging its deep roots,
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embracing authentic evolution,
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and avoiding practices that disconnect a dish from its cultural origins.
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In the case of Sisig,
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honoring the process, ingredients, and cultural context
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ensures that Sisig's legacy is upheld with dignity and authenticity.
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The Kapampangan's outrage over the misrepresentation of Sisig
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underscores the importance of the food history.
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It underscores a collective frustration due to the neglect of authentic representation.
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And let's be honest,
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this is actually reflecting a similar profound sense of betrayal,
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cultural betrayal,
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among the broader Filipino communities
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when witnessing the distortion of our culinary heritage.
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You know, like the viral reaction to the unconventional whitewashing additions to Halo-Halo,
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like popcorns in Halo-Halo,
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because these instances signify a disconnect
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from the rich histories and meticulous process tied to these beloved dishes.
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But instead of being divisive,
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this outcry should be seen as a compelling call
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to preserve respect and understanding
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the importance of authentic representation
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and appreciation for the cultural narratives
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embedded in each flavorful bite.
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Now, don't get me wrong,
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I'm not here to, you know, rain on anyone's parade.
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I'm not yucking anyone's yum.
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In fact, you know, you may add your own twists and turns
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and, you know, craft your own unique versions of Sisig
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that speaks to your taste buds.
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I mean, I've done it myself many times.
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Exploring and, you know, creating my own flavorful versions of Sisig,
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my own interpretations of this sacred dish.
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But, you know, no matter what you do with it,
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we must respect Sisig and its roots,
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its kapampangan roots.
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We must understand that the secret in achieving the most authentic
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and best-tasting Sisig is done
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through the meticulous use of the most simple of ingredients.
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Because the art of perfecting Sisig is all about achieving
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a harmonious balance of flavors,
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especially when it comes,
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to the interplay of sourness and tanginess.
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Because literally,
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the kapampangan root word Sisig as a noun denotes a tangy salad,
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while as a verb, manisig means to indulge in something sour.
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So always remember that if your Sisig leans too heavily on the salty,
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or you know, when it's too oily, gooey, salty and wet or whatnot,
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then let's be honest,
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that's no longer Sisig.
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And that is it for me today.
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So let us know what you think about today's topic in the comments below.
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And let us know in the comments,
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you know, what are your top 5 favorite Filipino food?
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I mean, for me, Sisig would always be in the top 5.
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Not just because of its kapampangan,
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but because of its deep history,
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its rich culinary heritage,
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you know, its evolution through history,
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through the centuries,
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that reflects the resilience and the ingenuity of our people.
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But of course, before I go,
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today's special shoutout goes to
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Bapang Mike, Tayag Manoloto Pangilinan,
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Darang Joy, Tayag Lansang Cruz,
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and the entire team behind
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Diaguman Sinupansingsing Center for Kapampangan,
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or Kapampangan Cultural Heritage.
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You know, for all your hard work in documenting and preserving
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our people's deep history and colorful traditions.
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Nakalpong salamat,
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See you next time,
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or in Tagalog, kita kids,
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and in Kapampangan,
